FAQ
Q: What is the best kind of fabric and thread to work with as a beginner?
A: It depends on what type of clothing you want to make. If you think you’ll use woven fabrics most, then I recommend a sturdy cotton fabric for beginners. If you know that you want to make clothing that stretches, then I recommend a stretch jersey fabric. Be sure to review the differences in handling woven vs knit / stretch fabric below. I always recommend a mid-weight polyester thread to beginners as it’s strong and isn’t prone to fraying.
Q: How do I know what kind of fabric to use for my project?
A: If you are using a pattern then it will list examples of the type of fabric that the pattern was designed to be used with. If you’re not using a pattern, try to consider the qualities of a fabric and what you want from the project and if they match well. For example, if I want a breezy & light cotton shirt then a stiff cotton denim is not going to give me the result that I want. Likewise, if I want a structured pair of jeans, then I shouldn’t use a slippery polyester satin. My pants won’t look or feel like jeans if I use that fabric. If you are having trouble deciding on a fabric, reach out to sewing friends or an online sewing community. People are happy to share their thoughts!
Q: How do I know how much fabric I’ll need for a project?
A: If you’re using a pattern then it will list how much you need to purchase for the project. You’ll need to take note of the amount of fabric (in yards) and the width of the fabric (in inches). Fabric can only be made so wide; most looms that produce fabric are between 45 inches and 60 inches wide. A commercial pattern generally lists how much fabric you’ll need for different widths. For example, a dress pattern could say that if your fabric is 45” wide then you’ll need 5 yards and if it’s 60” wide then you’ll need 3 yards. There’s no exact ratio so be sure to review your pattern. If you aren’t using a pattern, then you’ll have to estimate. This gets easier with time and by trying different projects. For example, I know that for pants or a long skirt I usually need 3 yards of a 45” wide fabric, but I can make a short-sleeve top from 1 yard.
Q: What’s the difference between woven and knit fabric? Do you sew them in different ways?
A: There’s a HUGE difference! But don’t get scared - both are great for clothing projects. I’ve discovered over the years that people who learn to sew with woven fabric first are often scared of trying knit fabric and vice versa. Honestly, though, it’s not that either is scarier than the other, they just require different tools and techniques. A woven fabric is one that doesn’t stretch when pulled on the grainline (up and down direction) or on the cross-grain (left and right direction). Examples are quilting cotton, denim, satin, etc. You should use a Universal needle when sewing with woven fabric and you can sew using a straight stitch on a sewing machine. A knit fabric is a fabric that stretches. The stretch comes from small amounts of elastane being added to the fabric during production. For instance, a knit jersey fabric may be 90% cotton and 10% elastane. Examples of knit fabrics include jersey, rib knit, fleece, etc. You’ll need to use a ballpoint needle in your sewing machine or a needle that specifically notes that it’s made for stretch / knit / jersey. And you’ll need to use the zigzag stitch when you sew your project together. The zigzag stitch allows the seamline to stretch with the fabric; if you use a straight stitch on knit fabric, then the thread in the seam will break when the material is stretched. The zigzag allows for the back and forth movement of stretching. A special note that both woven and knit fabrics use the same thread. Elastic thread does exist but it is for very specific techniques, not general sewing.
Q: What should my first project be?
A: In my experience, your first project should be one that you will want to finish. I’ve heard people say to start with a pillowcase or a drawstring bag and that’s great if those are things that you genuinely want to make. But if the project doesn’t interest you, it will be much more difficult to deal with any setbacks while you’re learning your new craft. If you want to learn to sew because you want to make leggings in every color, then I think you should start with a pair of leggings. You can always tweak or add to a pattern the next time you use it so it may change over time as you get better and more comfortable with the process. I do recommend keeping it simple though - I wouldn’t start with a ballgown or full-body catsuit. Those would be very involved projects. I recommend a shirt, skirt, dress, pants, bag, etc. in a material that you really like as your first project.
Q: How do I wash my me-made garments?
A: I wash mine just like all my clothing - cold wash and tumble dry low. I hang dry items that are more delicate or made from lighter weight materials. If you are concerned that your washer or dryer will be too rough on your handmade clothing, you can always hand wash and hang to dry. Most fabric purchased from a store will have recommended laundry instructions on it.
Q: Do I have to use a pattern?
A: No, you do not have to use a pattern. Many beginners prefer using patterns because they can include sewing tips or show how the designer intended pieces to fit together. But if you enjoy making your own patterns or want to just sew pieces and see where you end up, that’s great. Sewing is a personal journey and there’s no wrong way to sew.
Q: I’m afraid of sewing my project together wrong. What do I do if I mess up?
A: Everyone messes up! When that happens, you pull out a seam ripper and cut the seam apart. Then you can sew it again. Any sewing can be undone with a seam ripper so you can always redo something if you’ve made a mistake.
Q: Is it better to hand sew something or use a sewing machine?
A: Honestly, either way is perfect! Some people think that hand sewing creates a weaker seam than one done by machine but that’s not true. It all depends on the consistency and size of your hand stitches. And sometimes things look nicer with hand sewing. For example, when I make a dress I sew the whole thing on a sewing machine until the last step. The last step for me is to hem the bottom of the skirt. I don’t like to see the stitching on the hem, so I do it by hand and it’s almost completely hidden. So you can choose to use a machine or hand sewing based on how you want things to look or how easy / difficult it would be to get something into a sewing machine.
Q: I have a sewing machine but I don’t have the manual on how to use it. How do I figure out how to use my specific machine?
A: Google it! But really, you can search your sewing machine brand and model online and usually find a PDF version of the manual. Most sewing machine companies provide their manuals for free on their websites. They want you to continue using their machines, so they make the manuals available for you.
Q: I think my machine is broken or needs replacement parts. How do I figure out what’s wrong with it? Are there repair shops for sewing machines?
A: There are repair shops for sewing machines! There are very few standalone shops nowadays but many small business fabric stores have a repair person. If you have a local quilt shop or ‘mom & pop’ fabric store, see if they have someone who could take a look at your machine. A full examination and tune up of a machine will cost around $100 (this has been my experience in the US Midwest) but it is well worth it to have a machine that works properly. They will also be able to tell you if you need replacement parts and will likely order them for you. The other option is to troubleshoot the issues yourself through online blogs or YouTube videos, which I’ve done to fix minor issues. However, sometimes it’s not worth the headache and I just take it to the shop.
Q: What if I have specific sewing questions? Who can I ask for help?
A: While Googling or searching YouTube can sometimes help you find what you need, other times you just want to ask a human your question. I recommend making sewing friends by finding a local or online sewing community. There are several out there and some are specific to beginners, plus size bodies, sewing for children or for those who prefer a particular pattern brand. If you’re in the northwest Ohio or southeast Michigan area I run the Facebook group “Sewing in the 419” and we’d love to see you there!